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Whenever curating a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee renowned award-winning establishments. Yet, nestled high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a distant part of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

The little Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. This honour has left the owners totally shocked.

“I’m utterly surprised,” remarks a proprietor, referring to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their humble restaurant achieving such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its former character. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the food, and this restaurant more than delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender texture.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in slowly. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning outside its own premises. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this culinary triumph.